WW2 Model Airplane Kits

Flying boats and seaplanes, passion or just perverse?

2011-05-09T03:11:00.001-07:00

Airfix 1-72nd Short Sunderland III

For me flying boats and float planes are a passion! (You may have noticed??) There is something about these aircraft that exude grace, power and reliability all wrapped up in a menacing package. Some like the Short Sunderland, Consolidated PBY5 Catalina and the Kawanishi H8K2 (Allied code name Emily) were accomplished killers. And in the cases of the Sunderland and the Emily were heavily armed and armour plated targets. The Emily having a massive total of five 20mm cannon (yes that’s FIVE!) and 4 303 calibre machine guns.

Some like the German He115 and the Italian Cant Z506B were effective torpedo and anti submarine platforms. Although not flying boats they were dedicated maritime airplanes. Both were bombers and shipping strike aircraft, although their speed made them vulnerable to single engine fighters they did have a reasonable defensive armaments. Unfortunately the more armaments you put in an airplane the more you degrade their performance leading to a catch 22 situation.

via ww2-model-airplanes.wfh4l.com

Intriguing and engagingly well written post about Seaplanes and amphibians well worth the read!

Aircraft used by the RNZAF 1919-1987

2011-05-09T00:32:00.001-07:00

I thought some of you may be interested in a list of all aircraft bought or leased by the Rnzaf in the period of 1919-1987. This includes imperial gift aircraft and those received via lend lease during world war two. The New Zealand Government had three reports commissioned in the pre-war years. Two of these reports were in early 1919 and late 1928 suggested plans that would cost far in excess of which the government of the time was willing to spend. (In my opinion a dreadful policy that still exists to this today) When the RNZAF as it was renamed was divorced from the army, the New Zealand government thought it prudent to get advice on how to set it up. So asked the British air ministry to send out a qualified officer to write a report and make recommendations.

via ww2-model-airplanes.wfh4l.com

Ever wanted to know what types of aircraft the Royal new Zealand Air force used over it's life time? Look at this post it's a concise list!

What makes a kit Classic?

2011-05-09T00:29:00.001-07:00

What defines a classic kit?

Revell Fw200C

To me a classic kit is one that captures the imagination, an older mold that has stood the test of time and is as popular now as it was when first released. Obviously some kits will never make it to classic status, take the Pioneer Ta 154 as an example, as I’ve stated elsewhere, indifferent fit and few details if any renders this kit as an also ran. The reason this question was lurking in the back of my mind is that I’m currently building the Old mold Revell Fw200 C4. (Not to be confused with their current release which is state of the art!) First released three years after I was born, 1965 to be precise, frankly it has stood the test of time much better than myself!

via ww2-model-airplanes.wfh4l.com

You should really read this this it sums it up very nicely!

Airfix 1/72nd Short Sunderland III Flying boat

2011-05-09T00:23:00.001-07:00

Well it would seem that those that voted wanted to see me build this particular kit! I must admit to not minding at all, I love flying boats! This kit has been around a long time originally moulded in the sixties (Much like the guy building it) it’s a little gimmicky and toy like but that was the sixties for you. In my search on the web for information regarding this kit I stumbled upomn this build log I heartily suggest you go look at it here. After reading this build log I realise that I’m going to stretch myself with this build. But after all isn’t that what it’s all about? Stretching our abilities getting out of our comfort zone and learning and applying new techniques.

via ww2-model-airplanes.wfh4l.com

This looks like it'll be a great build log keep your eye's on this!

Photo Etch and it’s application

2011-02-04T23:49:00.001-08:00

Ever wondered what to do with photo etch? How to bend it and apply it? What glue to use? Then read this post it's a definite must read!

http://ww2-model-airplanes.wfh4l.com/1854/photo-etch-and-its-application/

What makes a kit Classic?

2011-02-04T23:43:00.001-08:00

Interesting post on what the author thinks makes a ckit classic.

http://ww2-model-airplanes.wfh4l.com/2021/classic-kits/

Photo Etch and it’s application

2010-10-22T17:14:00.001-07:00

Now you may have noticed in a couple of my previous posts I’ve mentioned photo etch. This is an important detailing material and it’s application to your model can greatly enhance it’s look and render it more scale accurate. Now this is because it’s not possible or practical to render scale thickness in plastic as the plastic would be so thin as to render it unusable. To thin to handle and in some of the larger models unable to support it’s own weight. So this is where photo etch comes in, usually brass but steel is also used, it’s strong generally easy to work with and can render reasonably accurate scale thickness.

Take as an example the flaps of aircraft, not an easy thing to render accurately in smaller scale aircraft, this is where photo etch comes into it’s own. The hinges and internal structure of the flaps can be rendered accurately and when painted it will be indistinguishable from the surrounding plastic of the kitset. Another good reason why we paint our models is to hide the different materials we’ve used and to make it appear as close to the original as possible.

When you work with photo etch several tools will be needed theses include but are not limited to

a scalpel with a strong blade to cut the parts free (or similar handle and blade)

A self healing mat to cut on (I find using a piece of glass and my scalpel as some articles suggest just dulls the blade rendering it worse than useless!)

A sharp pair of scissors (for clean up of the cut photo etch)

a straight edge preferably a metal one ( I use a chisel blade from my hobby knife)

a single sided razor blade to aid bending the etched metal

super glue, 5 minute epoxy or a soldering iron and solder with flux for a strong durable bond over long distances or curved shapes

a square

a spring clamp (to hold the work between the square and the straight edge so it can be bent)

Now to cut out the part you want, I find it handy to have a container in this case a round tin with foam at the bottom to keep the bent sub assemblies in.

when cutting out in this fashion I find it helpful to keep a finger on the part your removing as the last thin you want to see is your freshly cut part flying off

into the distance to become one with the great floor monster!

Cut as close to the leader as is possible this will save you time in the clean up of the loose parts and less frustration in the long run. Remember it’s all about

enjoying what your doing and satisfaction for a job done as well as our skill set will provide, practice does after all make adept. (As my eldest is want to say!)

Cleaning up the piece is a simple matter of using a sharp pair of scissors with fine blades. One of the rules I try to follow is don’t ever use a file on the piece

of photo-etch. All this does is bend the piece in places where I don’t want it bent. Instead, I use a very sharp small pair of scissors and using the edge of the

piece as a guide, cut the leader off. This should produce a nice, clean piece that does not need any filing. It seems some manufactures can’t help but put the

leaders in a place where scissors can’t fit. In this case, I try to cut the leader off as close to the piece as possible and correct any damage later. Sanding sticks

can work at a pinch but the part must be held firmly so it can be sanded without it bending the part out of shape.

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Bending is not an easy matter in some of the more complex pieces but I find my way works reasonably well. This is my favorite part. The idea for this came

from a job where the engineer had a sheet metal bending machine. I wanted had to make a box from sheet of metal, cut it, fold it and then spot-weld it. To

fold it, I used this big machine that I could slide the sheet metal under a clamp until it was right where I wanted the fold. Then I lifted up a handle, which

lifted the base the piece of metal was resting on, and bend it to the angle I wanted. The further I lifted the handle the more it would bend the metal. Now,

how do I recreate this in miniature? My solution was to use a spring-loaded hand clamp bought at a hardware store, an old square inherited from my

father, a chisel blade, and a single sided razor blade.

Place the piece on the square. Remember, the side with the line etched in it is the inside of the bend. Place the chisel blade right on the line that you intend to bend. If it is a ninety-degree bend you want, use the side of the blade. If the bend is more than ninety degrees, use the sharp edge of the blade. Use the clamp to hold the blade where you want it. I find it needs to be pretty close to the line to work effectively. Work the single sided razor blade under the part not under the clamp and push it right up to the line. Using one motion, lift the handle on the single sided razor blade, using the tip of the blade as a pivot point. If it is a ninety-degree bend, the knife will stop when it reaches the side of the chisel blade. I find I can then run the blade along the edge of the chisel blade and smooth out any imperfections and insure a smooth crease. If it is more or less than a ninety-degree bend, stop where you think you need to stop. Unclamp it and check your bend. Pretty simple, eh?

Correcting mistakes if any are made can be actually relatively easy as long as we remain calm! These are ways to correct mistakes that might have occurred like the fold was not done right, the piece was damaged during removal, or sometimes when there is a long fold, the fold might not be even. If the fold is wrong, then take the piece and place it back on the square, put the blade on top of it and squash it back flat with the clamp. Move the clamp around a bit, and squash again. Sometimes I wiggle the piece around under the blade to smooth it out. This is the same method I use to correct damage done to a piece while removing it from the tree.

Sometimes the fold is not straight on long pieces due to the size of the piece and the size of the razor blade. You get kind of a wrinkly fold. When this happens, remove the piece, switch the piece so the part under the blade is now up and the part you bent up is under the blade and squash the wrinkles out. I sometimes move the clamp around to make sure you get all the parts straight. Crease the edge with the razor blade to smooth out the fold, too. Remove the part and check it to see your perfect part!

Attaching the part most the time, you will use superglue of whatever viscosity you choose to attach the part. This is your only choice on resin pieces and metal to metal attachments. I place a small drop on a butter container lid and dip into it with a small wire. Place the glue where you want it, pick up the piece with a pair of tweezers and plop it right where you want it. Recently, I have been using regular plastic cement to attach tricky parts. Place a dab of regular ‘ol Testor plastic cement where the piece is to be attached. Let it soften a few moments and place the photo-etched piece in place. This gives you a little “wiggle” room to work with. This bond is not as strong as superglue, but I have found it to be good enough for a lot of applications. Nothing worse than prying off a piece of photo-etch held on with superglue because it is at the wrong angle or place. First, you will probably damage the piece, use super glue solvent! Secondly, the piece will probably fly off onto the great floor monster never to be found again. There you have it. An easy, affordable, way to work with photo-etch. No special tools required. Give it a try and see what you think!

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via ww2-model-airplanes.wfh4l.com

Ever had problems with creating fine details on your models? Photo etch is a great way to produce fine small detail such as instrument panels, straps and landing flaps on your model aircraft.
This article shows you how to use and apply photo etch

Aircraft profiles

2010-08-26T22:18:00.001-07:00

Hello fellow model enthusiasts

Just poking around on scribd and I've found a few great aircraft profiles. Check out the link and see for yourselves!

Cheers

NzFlyBoy

Awesome Book site

2010-08-24T23:33:00.001-07:00

Hi Guys

Just thought I'd let you know about Scribd this is an awesome site for finding resource books on the web. Check out what I'm reading right now follow this link and take a look for yourselves!

Cheers

NzFlyBoy

a little about me

2010-08-21T17:04:00.001-07:00

I think a brief introduction to me is in order. I have a lifes long passion and that is building model kit sets. Specifically world war two model airplane kitsets, being an aviation enthusiast courtesy of my father who served with the fleet air arm during world war two. Dad was a Leading Killick, that is he was responsible for the airworthiness of a Corsair fighter. (New Zealand was the second largest operator of Corsairs during world war two!) He loved aircraft, building gliders till us kids were born. (my sister and myself) He encouraged my love of aviation and I am just drawn to world war two aircraft. I can stand and stare for hours drinking in the detail. One of my enduring lifes goal is to own my own war bird! A lofty dream for sure as they are expensive to buy and maintain but one I hope to accomplish in my later years once kids have grown and flown the coop. I will always build models of them however as I enjoy working with my hands and creating something as realistic as possible. So I build models sell the occasional one, take on commission work and do my level best to promote my hobby. I hope to encourage others to start the hobby and bring back those who have left the hobby for now, for whatever reason. Check me out take a look at my website and comment, vote on my polls, and look at my work. See attached pictures for some idea of what I can do.

Cheers for now

NzFlyBoy

See and download the full gallery on posterous

Decals: How to Apply Them and Solve Problems

2010-02-01T15:51:00.000-08:00

There a number of problems you might encounter applying decals to model airplane kits

Decals: How to Apply Them and Solve Problems

This link takes you to a page that provides answers to problems like cracking and yellowing decals and gives helpful advice on the solutions to these issues.

Searching for colour matches for FS 595a & b colours

2009-07-05T05:15:00.000-07:00

A useful post on the Federal Standard Colours Range

Searching for colour matches for FS 595a & b colours

Containing useful information and websites.

WW2 Model Airplane Kits

2009-06-29T16:23:00.000-07:00

Excellent lens on building Worls War 2 Model Airplane Kits Check it out

WW2 Model Airplane Kits

Really interesting how to videos go check them out!!

1 48 Models

2009-06-29T15:08:00.000-07:00

A post about 1/48 Scale World War 2 Model Airplane kits

1 48 Models

Some interesting kits.

WW2 Model Airplane Links

2009-06-11T04:20:00.000-07:00

post containing useful links

WW2 Model Airplane Links

Useful links to informative Modeling sites

Flugwerks FW 190 The ultimate Kitset aircraft

2009-06-07T06:09:00.000-07:00

Here's an interesting post on the new replica FW190 by Flugwerks

Flugwerks FW 190 The ultimate Kitset aircraft

The ultimate WW2 Model Airplane kit

WW2 Warbirds

2009-06-06T04:23:00.000-07:00

An interesting blog post on Warbird aircraft

WW2 Warbirds

Information on world war 2 warbirds

WW2 Model Airplane Plastic Kitset Manufacturers

2009-05-29T18:05:00.000-07:00

Here's a list of WW2 Model Airplane Plastic Kitset Manufacturers that I have found

WW2 Model Airplane Plastic Kitset Manufacturers

Contains links to manufacturers websites so you can browse their online catalog's to look for WW2 Model Airplane Kits.

1 32 Models | WW2 Model Airplane Kits

2009-05-08T18:25:00.000-07:00

A page on 1/32 scale world war 2 airplane kitsets.

1 32 Models | WW2 Model Airplane Kits

A page of 1/32 scale kits

WW2 Model Airplane Plastic Kitset Manufacturers

2009-05-08T18:06:00.000-07:00

Here is a list of World war 2 model airplane manufacturers and links to their websites

WW2 Model Airplane Plastic Kitset Manufacturers | WW2 Model Airplane Kits

if you're having trouble making a decision on which kit to choose it sometimes pays to go to the manufacturers websites to help you make your decision.

2009-04-30T19:37:00.000-07:00

Here is an interesting article on the construction of the ICM Bf109E-7.

ww2-model-airplanes-Icm-172-scale-me109e-7-trop/

Airfix Beaufighter | WW2 Model Airplane Kits

2009-04-29T16:59:00.000-07:00

The Airfix Beaufighter is a WW2 model airplane kitset I recently completed. You can read about it here

Airfix Beaufighter | WW2 Model Airplane Kits

1/72 Scale ICM Messerschmitt Bf109E7

2009-04-27T00:46:00.000-07:00

Well I've finished my Beaufighter, in the end I decided not to spend money on an acrylic matte varnish. The fact Tamiya doesn't appear to produce one kinda swayed me to use my Humbrol matte varnish instead. So I sprayed my Beaufighter with a diluted matte varnish with some trepidation as I had never sprayed enamels before. Everything went off without a hitch so I'm incredibly happy to be finished! And as I write this post I have found it a home with my very good friend and partner in crime Niven Clement. See picture on page for finished kit set.

So I got the ICM kit from my stash and opened it and had a look over it again. One sprue of light grey, slightly soft grey plastic came out of the side opening box, and my first pleasant surprise!For the money this is a well detailed and engineered kitset.

My only gripe is a lack of locating pins on the fuselage. My second surprise was a set of quite comprehensive decals in good register. It was an easy build and straight forward, except for the problem of aligning the fuselage correctly. Which was accomplished with the aid of Tamiya masking tape. The colour call out says to paint the interior a light olive green, but I painted mine RLM02, which I believe was the colour German cockpits were painted.

That aside I've got the kitset together and painted it, all I need do now is apply the decals and weather it. Having painted the kit with Mr Colour makes it easier to decal as Mr Colour is a gloss paint and the decals adhere to gloss paint so incredibly well. Saves on painting Future floor polish over my model.

I have compared my ICM Bf109-E7 with a kit from Italeri of a Bf109-G6. The Italeri offering is more detailed but almost twice the price! It covers two sprues of light gray hard plastic. Not sure where I'm going to fit this one in my build list, I'll probably wait till the mood takes me.

Still I'm now at the point of decaling and I find my mind wandering. What am I going to build next?? The eternal question asked by modelers every where, the next being what should I model the kit on? Something strange, like a Spitfire in Luftwaffe markings? A Bf109-G6 in Swiss airforce livery? Just because the kit is of a well known subject doesn't mean it has to be painted in the usual colours!

Okay Guys and Gals that's all for now I'll write more soon and let you know how my finished Bf109-E7 turns out and what I plan to build next.

2009-04-16T02:46:00.000-07:00

Well it's been a busy month for me, working on my website, social book marking (Thank you hunny) and working out what I want to write. Well I've been working on the Airfix Beaufighter, gods I thought I wasn't that badly affected by A.M.S. (Advanced modelers syndrome), however after working on the observer/gunners position and cockpit I wonder if I'm more badly affected than I realize! See my album on Flickr and my website to see my progress.

Well I've got the Beaufighter together, painted, decaled, and weathered all I need to do to finish it is give a couple of thin coats of matte varnish, well I go to my paints and pull out what I think is matte varnish only to find its matte base, now matte base is a wonderful thing add it to a gloss paint and it'll turn it matte! But it IS NOT a varnish! So I have a trip to my favourite model store to pick up a tin or two of matte varnish!

I want to finish this project so I can start my next one, which is going to be an ICM 1/72nd scale Me109-E7 Trop. Now I don't know if you've seen the colour picture of two Me109-E7 over the north African Desert and how they just blend into the back ground? If not check out the book cover of Luftwaffe at war "Eagles over North Africa and the Mediterranean 1940-1943" there is an Me109-E7 on the cover in exactly that camouflage.

It's the camouflage that interests me as I'll have to use masks to create it and give it that hard edge look to it. Not a skill I currently have and it will be interesting to learn how to do it and share that knowledge with you all!

Hmmm okay guys and gals (Yes there a few of you out there who share my passion) I guess that'll do for now till later then!

Happy modeling

NZFlyboy

Welcome to my modelling desk.

2009-04-02T17:54:00.000-07:00

WW2 Model Airplane Kits and their construction.

Well now to write a little about me, I'm 47 live in New Zealand I've been building kit sets since I was a wee tyke. I brought my first two over the fence from my next door neighbour Alex. I then spent the next years spending all my pocket money on kits and glue, roughly one tube of glue per kit! Later I learnt the art of using just enough glue that I didn't soften the plastic and have the sides of the model collapse. Later again I learnt how to paint them, but just the outside! My modeling took off when I got a job, all of my remaining disposable income after paying bills was spent on models and the tools and accessories of my hobby.

I became fast friends with the proprietor of my local hobby shop, run by enthusiasts for enthusiasts. (sadly now long defunct) From these enthusiasts I learnt my new and novel ideas, namely painting the interior and filling the open seams with putty. my models began to actually look like smaller versions of the original. Later I became interested in researching the subject of my model, what squadron, where and who flew it.

Much later I became interested in my countries contribution to the Second World War, I read about the brave men who flew fought and died thousands of miles from their homeland, of our soldiers resilience and resourcefulness. The Long Range Patrol initially all drawn from the ranks of New Zealand Infantry and later the Long Range Desert Group. Of our pilots who fought and died in the early days in France and in the Battle of Britain. Our contribution way in excess of the size of our country. Of the outstanding men who came to command squadrons, Wings and entire sections of the RAF, both in the United Kingdom and the middle east.

This journey has been a frustrating but rewarding one, frustrating because of poor kits that took all my meager skill to put together (although at the time I cared not), rewarding by finishing and learning new techniques to deal with these models. The joy of making these kits look as real as possible, I have not as yet been badly affected by A.M.S. (Advanced Modelers Syndrome), but my wife watches my descent with apprehension (kidding hunny)! I have started a website to detail what I have learned and what can be done with the kits available to us. To encourage others to follow in my footsteps, learn from my mistakes. But mainly to inform and entertain my fellow enthusiasts, so that they may learn that their not weird and others suffer and enjoy the things they do. So welcome to my journey and to my world sit down and rest a while lets talk and see where it takes us.

Happy modeling

NZFlyboy